Vehicle Inspections save hundreds!

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  • Buying a car?
  • Is your new car warranty about to run out?
  • Is your cars service schedule all mixed up and you need a thorough check?

NRMA Inspections. (associated with RACQ, RACC, RACV etc)

SAVE $100 when you get a MRT vehicle inspection! (details below)

All Inspections are Guaranteed for 1 month after date of our checkover

MRT are a fully trained and approved NRMA authorised workshop.
We can do a comprehensive inspection and report back to you all the things you do and do't want to know about the car you may be about to purchase.
If your car is about to run out of its new car warranty we can inspect it and check it carefully for you to ensure its 100%
Let our trained technicians put many years of experience to your advantage, we find  the small things that hide the secrets of the past history, good and bad!
The cost of the inspection is low cost "insurance" and piece of mind.

Second hand car owner?
Already OWN your car?

To maximise your second hand car warranty, you only have 3 MONTHS for you to claim a warranty.
This is separate to any manufacturers warranty that may also apply
typically if your car is older than 3 years then the 3 month warranty is VALUABLE to utilise FAST

More info here in second hand car warranty

"The Motor Dealers Act provides a statutory warranty of 3 months or 5,000 km from the date of sale (whichever occurs first) on second-hand vehicles, which includes demonstrator vehicles, that have travelled less than 160,000 km and are less than 10 years old (from the date the vehicle was built)."

MRT can inspect your car and give you a full list of anything that you may be able to claim in this 3 month period.
Often the cost of the inspection is a small price to pay in SAVING you money.

We offer two levels of inspection

  • "Normal" NRMA inspection
  • "Platinum" inspection. (for added piece of mind)  

Remember a vehicle inspection will often result in extra items that you can negotiate with the seller.
Often saving you thousands of $$ 

Some items as an exmple we check are:

  • Paint thickness, using a special electronic guage.
    This can help indicate if previous panel repairs have taken place.
  • Non genuine nuts and bolts.
    Often indicate poor repairs or previous modifications
  • Perished or soft water hoses.
  • Oil leaks.
    Minor and major.
  • Rust and poor chassis repairs.
  • Wire harness faults, under the dash and in the engine bay.
  • On road performance.
    Do you really know how well your car is performing?
  • and much much more
When you get a MRT vehicle inspection and the car requires more than $500 worth of work and you are the owner, or new owner who paid for the inspection, we will CREDIT you HALF of the inspection cost.
Thats $100 towards your car repairs!
Simply quote this web page when you book your car in.

Here are some sample pics of a car we checked for a client who was almost ready to buy it!
Hover your mouse over the image to see the information about that picture.

Cracked bent rear diff mount Evidence of damaged battery Hidden rust from poor repairs Leaky ABS system Missing bolt Non original pop rivets on ID plate Non standard BOV bolts Non turbo inlet on turbo car Poor exhaust hanger mount Car was red, now is blue Rust from damaged battery Poor window fit after chassis repairs

Body of the car

Panel fitment
Loose panels may indicate accident damage or that the car has been driven over rough roads.
Doors and boot lid
Catches should close firmly. Rubber seals can perish over time.
Rust/accident damage
Check inside the boot, the floor wells, doors and lower sills for red or other dark stains, dimpled or bubbled paint. Use a soft fridge magnet to check panels for plastic body filler.
Hail damage
Hail damage makes a car difficult to insure. Check the horizontal panels such as the bonnet, roof and boot lid.
Look for colour variation, overspraying, dents or ripples. These may indicate that the car has been in an accident.
Upholstery, trim, carpets
Check for wear and tear.

Under the bonnet

Compliance plate
A motor vehicle's compliance plate will define the date on which the vehicle was confirmed to comply with certain Australian Design Rules (ADR). With some imported vehicles the date of compliance will vary from the date of manufacture.
Engine appearance
A build-up of dirt may suggest poor maintenance or mechanical problems.
Built plate
A motor vehicle's built date is the date during manufacture when the engine is fixed to the chassis. This is usually determined as the date of manufacture. This date is usually stamped on a metal plate fixed to the motor vehicle.
Engine number and VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)
VIN is an International system of identifying motor vehicles and is required under ADR's. It is a combination of letters and numbers to identify its individual characteristics, for example model code, series, luxury level and body style.
The numbers shown on the Certificate of Registration must match the engine and VIN numbers on the car. Be wary of any signs of interference such as scratches, grind marks or drill holes. These may indicate illegal tampering with the numbers and the vehicle.
Engine oil
Dirty/thick oil and a build-up of sludge in the engine may suggest poor maintenance. Grey or milky coloured oil may suggest the presence of water, which would indicate serious problems.
Engine idle
The engine should idle smoothly. Listen for irregular running or any unusual noise such as any knocking or rattling noises.
Oil fumes
Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is idling. Fumes may signify worn piston rings or cylinders. Thick, black smoke coming from the exhaust can signify problems as well.
Radiator coolant
Should be clean and brightly coloured. Oil in the coolant may indicate a cracked cylinder-head or a leaky gasket.
Radiator cooler fins or core tubes
Check for corrosion or damage.
Battery mounting platform/bracket
Check for acid corrosion.

Underneath the car

Tyres (remember to check the spare)
Uneven wear may indicate worn or misaligned steering or suspension.
Oil leaks
Check the engine, transmission, axles, brakes, power steering and shock absorbers. A leak in any of these areas could indicate a problem and could possibly be a danger.
Exhaust system
Fumes or excessive noise may suggest there is a hole or rust in the pipes or the muffler.

Inside the car

Check that the belts are not frayed or damaged, and that the belts, buckles and adjusters and child restraint anchorage points are in good condition.
Check that all lights, both inside and outside the car, are working. If the car is fitted with ABS and/or SRS (air bag), check that the dashboard warning light/s illuminate for a short time when the ignition is turned on.
Equipment and accessories
Check air-conditioning, ventilation fan, electric windows, sound systems, etc. Inoperative items can be expensive to repair or replace.
Jack and tool-kit
These items should be in place and in serviceable condition.

Odometer Alteration

The Motor Dealers Act (The Act) makes it illegal to interfere with an odometer. It states that the following actions are deemed to be interference:

  • altering the reading of the odometer
  • removing or replacing the odometer
  • rendering the odometer inoperative or inaccurate by any means whatsoever
  • fitting a device capable of rendering the odometer inoperative or inaccurate.

A dealer is also prohibited from advertising or specifying that the reading of an odometer is accurate if the dealer knows or has reasonable cause to know that this is not the case.

Driving Test

As part of a thorough inspection many people test-drive the car. The following are some things to check when test-driving.

Gear changes (manual and automatic) should be smooth, without any rattles or knocking noises. On front-wheel drive vehicles, these noises could indicate worn constant-velocity joints.
Suspension and bodywork
Listen for rattles when you drive over bumps. It is also wise to have the car inspected by a reputable mechanic.
Excessive ‘free travel’ or wandering on straight roads can indicate worn suspension or misaligned steering. Brakes The car should stop smoothly and in a straight line. The pedal should not sink to the floor or feel spongy and the steering wheel should not vibrate.
Blue smoke indicates oil is burning.
Should run smoothly (accelerating, decelerating and cruising) and the water temperature gauge should stay in the safe range. Rattling or knocking could mean incorrect tuning or excessive wear.